A retrofit Bluetooth intercom transforms a standard helmet — adding music, sat-nav audio, calls, and rider-to-rider communication. Fitting one yourself takes about 30 minutes and requires no special tools. Getting it right, however, makes the difference between clear, intelligible audio and a frustrating, muffled experience. Here’s how to do it properly.
Before You Start
Check your helmet for intercom compatibility first. Most modern full-face and modular helmets have recessed speaker pockets in the EPS liner either side of the ears, and a channel for the microphone boom or wire. Helmets like the Shoei Neotec 3 and many others are designed with these recesses. If your helmet lacks speaker pockets, you can still fit speakers but positioning is more critical. Remove the cheek pads and liner before starting — most are held by press studs and slide-in tabs.
Step 1: Mount the Main Unit
The main control unit mounts on the outside of the shell, usually on the lower left side for right-handed access. Most systems offer two mounting methods: a clamp that slides between the shell and the cheek pad, or an adhesive base plate. The clamp is more secure and doesn’t risk shell damage; the adhesive plate is the only option on some helmet shapes. If using adhesive, clean the surface thoroughly with the supplied alcohol wipe and let it cure fully — usually 24 hours — before attaching the unit.
Step 2: Position the Speakers
Speaker placement is the single biggest factor in audio quality. The speakers should sit directly over your ear canals — not above, below, or in front. Put the helmet on and mark where your ear canals sit before fitting. Most systems include thin foam spacers to bring the speakers closer to your ears if the recesses are deep; use them if there’s a gap, as distance from the ear dramatically reduces volume and clarity. Secure the speakers in the pockets using the supplied adhesive backing or hook-and-loop pads.
Step 3: Fit the Microphone
For full-face helmets, the boom microphone mounts inside the chin bar, positioned roughly a centimetre from your mouth, slightly off to one side rather than directly in front (which catches breath noise). The microphone usually has a foam windsock — make sure it’s fitted, as it dramatically reduces wind noise. For modular and open-face helmets, a wired microphone is typically used, routed to sit at the corner of your mouth. Check the microphone’s “this side to mouth” marking — fitting it backwards ruins audio quality.
Step 4: Route the Wiring
Tuck all wiring into the channels between the EPS liner and the shell. Loose wiring inside the helmet is uncomfortable and can affect fit. Take time to route cables neatly — they should disappear completely once the liner is reinstalled. Leave a small amount of slack at the connectors so the cheek pads can be removed in future without straining the wires.
Step 5: Reassemble and Test
Reinstall the cheek pads and liner, making sure no wires are pinched or visible. Put the helmet on and check speaker alignment with your ears — adjust if needed before final use. Pair the unit with your phone and test audio at a standstill, then on a short ride at various speeds. Good noise cancellation should keep audio intelligible at motorway speed; if it’s muffled, the speakers are likely too far from your ears.
Tips for the Best Audio
- Speaker-to-ear distance matters most — use foam spacers to close any gap
- Always fit the microphone windsock — it’s the biggest factor in reducing wind noise
- Position the mic slightly off-centre to avoid breath noise
- Route wires fully out of sight to preserve helmet fit and comfort
- Test before you rely on it — a quiet car park reveals alignment issues before a motorway does